by 
According to Futbology, Thursday’s Group B qualifier against Palestine was my 16th time watching Korea Republic. All 16 games were played at home in four cities (Seoul, Suwon, Hwaseong, and Ansan), but it was only the second 0-0 draw among the 16. The previous one, at least, came against a good Iranian team in 2017.
The game against Palestine was the worst game I have ever been to. The highlight was seeing Hong Myeong-bo, the new manager, booed every time his face appeared on TV. There was a disallowed goal for the visitors, a few missed chances and a lot of shouting, but 98 minutes of mourning. With nothing to write about the game, I thought I would write about the atmosphere for anyone hoping to see the national team soon.
Luckily, I was accompanied by two people who were playing their very first Korean game.
Arbitrary scores out of 10 for Korea’s Group B qualifying match against Palestine.
Stage: 9. The official attendance of 59,000 (nearly 10,000 less than the maximum capacity) allowed for freedom of movement. There is not a bad seat anywhere in the stadium. And since you can watch from different vantage points, you get a great view wherever you go.
Game: 2. Really horrible. Be generous.
Atmosphere: 6. We will discuss this later.
Food: 6. Standard dishes inside and outside the stadium. Fried chicken, chicken skewers and octopus.
Drink: 6. The price of a large box (2,700₩) is remarkably cheap for a game of this size. But the selection is average.
Goods: 10. Unlike a K League stadium, where you have to queue for 30 minutes to buy scarves in 35-degree heat, there are countless stalls selling jerseys, t-shirts, flags and more, both old and new. The selection of products is impressive.
The noise level when Son Heung-min touches the ball: 16,829.
How is the day in Seoul?
The games in Korea are unparalleled. The adoration and unconditional love that local fans have for their favorite players transcends sports. It’s a level of hero worship that reaches a whole new level. It’s a mesmerizing experience to watch grown men and women scream and yell when Song Heung-min, Lee Gang-in, and Hwang Hee-chan, in particular, touch the ball.
The difficulty with this type of support is that you can’t tell the difference between a goal scored, a corner kick, a hero’s frantic run or Lee Gang-in’s spectacular performance on the touchline. It all sounds exactly the same, regardless of the stadium, the opponent, the importance of the match or the way it’s played out.
Back to the two fans who enjoyed their first game at this level. “It was a really enjoyable experience, thanks for organising the tickets.” They both bought a Red Devil shirt, headbands and food. They loved the experience, the atmosphere and the noise. “You’ll never find that at Wembley.”
Putting the K League on the back burner?
Wait, there.
It’s also possible that genuine K League fans will be excluded from the game. ₩30,000 is good value for an international match, but it’s three times what you’d expect to pay in K League 2. And given that most of the marches take place in Seoul on a midweek evening, how many fans from Pohang, Ulsan or Jeonju make the trip?
Under Klinsmann and Bento, the 30,000 yen tickets sold out immediately. Subsequent tickets are priced at 70,000 yen with no discount for children. Bringing a family to watch a game becomes a very expensive outing. I have always wondered how many national team fans are regulars at their local K League club. How many of them watch football from their sofa, like a TV show, watching SpoTV late at night or endless replays of Son’s goals for Spurs? Is that why some of them look like they are about to faint when Gang-in dribbles past three Palestinian defenders?
I would rather go to a K League 1 or 2 game. The crowd is smaller (which suits me), there are lots of songs and very impressive banners and flags. Getting up early to take the train to Cheongju is my favorite kind of outing, even though the away zone is a kilometer away from the ground. The fans have a genuine connection with their clubs and the players who wear the jersey.
It’s definitely better than watching Korea struggle to defeat a mediocre AFC team to a soundtrack of screams, yells and moans. But that’s just my opinion.
Should I watch Korea vs. Iraq?
If you’ve never been to a Korean international match, then don’t hesitate. Besides the fact that you get to see some very high-level players (Son, Lee, Hwang, Kim Min-jae, and then there’s Yang Min-hyeok, who could do incredible things), the atmosphere is worth the trip.
It all depends on what you want from your football game. If you like to sit back and watch good football, this game might not be for you. If you treat footballers like celebrities and swoon over their every move, this game is for you.
And let’s not forget that there is no violence in these games. Aside from the protests against the KFA members and the manager, there is no trace of toxicity in the air. And that’s how football should be watched. Tickets are cheap, the stadiums are world-class, the talent is obvious, and you can get all of this for just ₩30,000.
But I also understand if you choose to stay home and watch it on TV.
